Empties: Summer 2020

I’m cannot believe I’ve never thought to do Empties posts before. Over the years, I have recommended many a product to you all, but I think it might be helpful to show the many, many products along the way that don’t make the cut. As you know, I’m a skincare and beauty junkie who is constantly looking for the HG of every product, so I go through a LOT. It’s about time I shared them with you!

I thought it’d be fun to have a ranking system. That way, if you’re not interested in reading my detailed takeaways, you can just scroll to my final grade. Grading is as follows:

Bear in mind I started saving these Empties in May, so this round-up kinda sorta accounts for Spring 2020 as well. I figure I’ll do these quarterly and I don’t expect them all to be this long!

Without further ado, here are the products I finished in the last 5 or so months and my (brutally honest) thoughts on them…

FYI, nothing here is sponsored!

SKINCARE

Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Cleanser ($39): I received this in a PR package along with several other Dermalogica products. I used up the moisturizer from the same line quickly and was a big fan (I’ve repurchased it!), but it says something that this cleanser has been languishing in my shower for probably close to a year. I don’t know how to put this delicately but… I just really hated this cleanser. Did I say “hate”? Yes. Yes, I did.

While I found it cleansed alright, I often still found grime and makeup on my bamboo rounds afterwards. Further, while my skin did feel hydrated (the cleanser’s big selling point), I can’t say I noticed any difference in the hydration levels of my skin going from this one to any other cleanser. Also, I’ve read terms like “hydrating” and “clarifying” and “brightening” don’t really mean a whole lot when it comes to cleansers given how short a time the product actually remains on your face; pretty much all your cleanser has to do is actually CLEAN your skin and not strip it in the process.

But what bugged me about this cleanser, and what inched it into “hate” territory: it seriously burned my eyes. I’m not talking a light sting, either—I’m talking a wash-your-eyes-out-and-grab-eye-drops level burn. I’ll admit I do have sensitive-ish eyes (I can’t wear many sunscreens on my face for this reason), but regardless, if it’s a cleanser and meant to be rubbed all over your face, this is unacceptable. I’m amazed I even finished this (evidence of my determination not to waste product). This is a HARD pass for me.

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Korres Greek Yoghurt Foaming Cream Cleanser ($26): I got this cleanser on sale in a Korres value pack, one of the many holiday gift packs that gets discounted after the New Year. The main appeal of the pack was a favorite product of mine, Korres’ Spotless Serum, and it was basically like getting the cleanser for free. It was a no-brainer.

I didn’t really find this cleanser very foamy—even when I tried to lather it—and would say it’s more of a basic cream cleanser. (I don’t actually care whether or not a cleanser foams but I feel this is worth pointing out since “foaming” is in the actual product name.) As a whole, it was a solid step up from the Dermalogica cleanser: It cleansed well, got rid of eye makeup pretty well (I’d say an 8 out of 10), left my skin hydrated, and it only slightly stung my eyes. That said, it did still sting my eyes, which forever earns a thumbs down from me. There are just too many good cleansers out there that don’t irritate my eyes. I wouldn’t repurchase this.

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First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Wild Oat Hydrating Toner ($22): I bought this at Sephora on a whim back in March while looking for a basic, ultra gentle toner to incorporate into my nighttime routine. After years of trial and error, I’ve come to the conclusion that my results with prescription tretinoin are 10000x better when used with a gentle, non-acid toner (sniff, sorry P50!). So when I stumbled upon this baby, I figured it was worth the (pretty reasonable) $22.

The fact that there are two Empties here speaks for itself. I cannot say enough good things about this toner. It is alcohol-free and fragrance-free and milky and translucent and SUPER hydrating. By night, I’ve found my skin can better tolerate (and crucially, adapt to) my tretinoin with this. Meanwhile, by day, I’ve begun patting it around my eyes and using P50 on the rest of my face and it has been positively TRANSFORMATIVE. I never have that “tight” feeling around my eyes that I hate so much. Also, given my eye area is my biggest concern in terms of wrinkles and aging, I’ve got to say I’ve been duly impressed with the difference something so mild (and affordable) has made. They say hydration is the most important thing when it comes to the eye area, and I finally see what they mean. The fragile skin around and under my eyes feels more hydrated and “plumped” than it has in years (yes, really!). This one change (applying this particular toner around my eyes morning and night) has had more impact on my eye area than any eye cream ever has.

There are very few products I can say I use both during the day and at night and this is one of them. I had already gone through two bottles before saving these two for this post. I’m already on another bottle now and have a backup in the closet. It would take a miracle product to bump this from my routine.

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Primera Wild Seed Firming Serum ($74): I got this in a PR package with some other Primera products. This is the second product I’ve finished; I used up and liked their water cream but wouldn’t repurchase it (to be fair I’m not a water cream person as I tend to prefer thicker creams). I’m already in love with their lip mask which is not particularly pleasant to use (it’s quite sticky and gritty) but gives excellent results. (My lips are somehow plumper in the AM after applying at night.)

As for this serum, I liked it. It was undeniably hydrating (which makes sense given the second ingredient is glycerin) and left my skin pleasantly soft and dewy, yet never sticky. It does have a scent but it’s lovely and mild. I think my favorite aspect was the unique texture; it’s advertised as having an “elastic” consistency and that’s weirdly accurate. It lives somewhere between being a serum and a lotion, consistency-wise. I don’t know about the “firming” part and, after finishing the entire bottle, I wouldn’t say I noticed any difference in terms of wrinkles or texture (the main ingredient on this front seems to be antioxidants from the “Grace Soybean”). But overall, it is a perfectly pleasant serum that I have no gripes about.

Why don’t I think I’ll repurchase? Well, with my toner and moisturizer giving me my dose of hydration, I prefer to bring in heavier hitters ingredient-wise for the serum department. The serum category is too important and precious to use up on something that merely hydrates and doesn’t really treat. (I know there are those “firming” antioxidants but I remain unconvinced.) Also, I think it’s overpriced for what it is and $74 can get you far more in a serum.

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Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90): This is probably the most “famous” product on this list and I’m sure if you’re reading this post you’ve probably dabbled in Drunk Elephant by now. While I do like some of their products, I can’t say I get the hype. I think their branding is excellent and their timing with the “clean” beauty movement couldn’t have been better. But I personally have found their products overpriced for what they deliver and I have rarely repurchased. In case you’re wondering, my only consistent repurchase is their Sukari Babyfacial Mask, which is not for the faint of heart (nor is its $80 price tag) but which I have found to be legitimately fantastic.

So, this serum. It’s… okay, I guess? Considering it’s hyped as a strong AHA + BHA acid serum, it has a slight burn to it, and considering I have non-sensitive skin that can take acids, I would have expected more noticeable results, even just in terms of resurfacing. It was, at best, only decent at this task. Frankly, I would rather just use P50 + a glycolic mask (aka, their Babyfacial, or my longtime fave, the Ren Radiance Renewal Mask) once in awhile to achieve far superior results.

Given I am now firmly in a rock solid tretinoin routine and take a night off every 4-5 nights, this just wasn’t special enough to add to the that “off” night. I noticed no difference when using it in conjunction with tretinoin, nor when I tried it on its own for several nights in a row which, at $90 for a 1 fl oz bottle, is unacceptable. I’ll put it this way: even if I was gifted another bottle of this, I’d probably give it to a friend.

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L’Occitane Ultra Rich Face Cream ($34): You may remember this moisturizer from my early pandemic Sephora sale round-up. I purchased it looking for a basic, hydrating moisturizer that didn’t break the bank.

I used this cream mainly at night, patting it over my tretinoin (after letting the tretinoin absorb for awhile). It hydrates well (I’m learning shea butter really agrees with my skin; I know it breaks some people out but I’m fortunate enough not to have that issue). But if I’m honest, I didn’t find it necessarily better than other basic creams I’ve tried. I do think it’s reasonably priced for the amount you get and for how long it lasts. However, there was something about the scent that put me off. It smelled similar to L’Occitane’s basic hand cream, but there’s a difference between putting a certain scent on your hands versus your face. I don’t mind fragrance in general (I know there’s debate over the irritation it can cause) but I just wasn’t wild about this. I wouldn’t repurchase.

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Josh Rosebrook Cacao Antioxidant Mask ($65): I did a lot of research on this mask before buying it. While my experimentation with Josh Rosebrook products has been hit or miss, the hits are HITS, so I dove into this purchase without much hesitation.

My review of this mask is like a reverse bullshit sandwich. Instead of the negative being flanked by positives, it’s a positive flanked by negatives.

First slice of bread: This mask is a pain in the ass. It just is. It’s basically like smearing dark chocolate all over your face. I found it near impossible to use it without getting chocolate-y (or poo-like, depending on how you want to look at it) stains on whatever shirt I was wearing (they do come out in the wash), and afterwards, spraying what looked like brown toilet water all over the bathroom. It’s just messy and not in a fun, novelty-factor way (as with, for example, the famed Dr. Brandt magnet mask). Further, for those of you with partners you live with, this was deemed THE #1 most terrifying mask in my arsenal by Andy. I’m not saying this matters (I couldn’t care less if he’s scared of my mask faces and, if anything, it’s a source of entertainment for both of us), but considering I have one which he calls the “Hannibal Lecter”, ranging all the way to what he calls the “Toilet Face”, this is saying something.

Between the bread: First, and not that it necessarily matters, but the spicy chocolate-y scent is heavenly. It’s one of those products you’re tempted to taste even though you know it’s a bad idea. Second, as a product, it is legitimately great. It does have a stimulating effect on the skin, like it wakes it up and somehow seems to get blood moving, yet not in an irritating way. Cacao is known for being antioxidant-rich, and the formula also features numerous famous ingredients in the natural skincare world (goji berry, turmeric, ashwagandha, marshmallow root). It really does feel like you give your skin a shot of something good. It did for my bare face what blush does for my makeup face; it adds a certain something, a subtle flush that lasted into the next day. Now, I’m not sure about any longterm effects (I wouldn’t say my skin was transformed for days or anything), but if you had an event or special occasion and planned on putting this on before hopping in the shower, I would recommend this.

Closing slice of bread: As much as I had a love/hate with this mask for the first several months, over time that veered towards hate alone. Texture-wise, the product started out delectably smooth and thick and spreadable, but I noticed it getting drier and drier each time I used it. Finally, after around 6 months, it was like a rock. It came to the point where, in order to use it, I needed to hack away at it with a spoon and then add some water to mash it into a spreadable consistency. (I wish I were exaggerating.) Given my complaints in sandwich slice #1, you can see why this wouldn’t warm me to the product. Josh Rosebrook’s products are famously all-natural and therefore have an expiration date printed on the bottom of each jar. However, this didn’t even come close to retaining a usable consistency at the halfway mark (the expiration date was 12 months from when I bought it— this year mark is typical for natural products). I feel like this is more of a packaging thing than a safety thing in terms of ingredients, but at $65, there should at least be a rubber insert or cushioning in the lid (the packaging is all glass) to attempt to keep things air tight.

Overall…. well, I’m torn, clearly. I really feel the experience of using a product is important, and if the product hadn’t literally dried up so quickly, this might have been a 4 Panda product. However, at the end of the day, I can picture myself begrudgingly buying this again. It does what it says it’ll do, which is more than I can say for most of the products I try.

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Peach & Lily Glass Skin Discovery Kit ($39): I’d been hearing good things about this Korean Beauty brand and I figured a “discovery kit” was a nice, low-commitment way of testing the waters. You’ve probably heard of Peach & Lily as one of the largest K-Beauty retailers, but you may not have heard that they started their own line dedicated to achieving “glass skin”—aka the famed Korean beauty ideal of poreless, “translucent” skin, akin to “a pane of glass”. Trust me, I was as intrigued as you probably are just reading this.

I liked every product in this box. The Wild Dew Treatment Essence was delightful, both substantial yet simultaneously light, and mega-hydrating (the third ingredient is niacinamide, which is damn good at this price point). The Glass Skin Refining Serum was lovely, light, and gave a great dewiness. I didn’t really notice any difference in my skin with the Matcha Pudding Antioxidant Cream, but it was pleasant, hydrating, and played well with other products. Overall, my skin felt plumped and happy with these products. But for me, the real star was the Power Calm Hydrating Gel Cleanser, which got rid of every last bit of makeup, including eye makeup (impressive for a gel cleanser), yet without any irritation whatsoever. It left my skin squeaky clean, but not SQUEAKY in that dry way. I’ll put it this way: Out of these four products, I finished the cleanser first and was quick to buy the full-size, which now sits in my shower.

So what are my thoughts on the “glass skin” claims? Well, that’s where I feel like a “discovery kit” may not make the cut. There wasn’t really enough of any product to see long term affects, even when I used all four in sync with each other and for several days in a row. That said, I can see these products, especially the serum, being excellent in the long run. The serum boasts peptides, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid, making it full of active ingredients that should brighten and even out skin tone over time. To me, $39 for a serum with that ingredient list is a good value, and I can absolutely see myself buying the full size in the future, taking before/afters, and seeing how it does. The cleanser is a fixture; I use it most nights and always enjoy it. Overall, this kit was a great intro to the brand and that actually made an impression on this jaded, wandering-eyed beauty junkie.

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BEAUTY

The Ordinary Coverage Foundation ($6.90): I cannot belieeeeeve how long it took me to finish this foundation. You’ll certainly remember it from my New Additions 2019 post, and let me tell you, I am just as enamored with it now as I was then.

The consistency of this foundation is where the magic lies for me. It’s fabulously liquid-y, making it really blend-able and mixable with other products. The coverage is insane (almost too good, honestly—I tend to mix it with tinted moisturizers or serums so it’s less opaque a coverage). It gives the most natural, not-too-shiny and not-too-matte finish, and because so little goes such a long way, a $7 (!!!) bottle lasts FOREVER.

I will stop raving. You know how I feel about this stuff. :)

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Jeffree Star Magic Star Concealer ($22): I went through a Jeffree Star Youtube binge a little over a year ago (before the Youtube beauty scene Dramageddon) and decided to try out two products from his own line. It took me a LOOOONG time to finish both products, hence why they’re only here now. But suffice to say, based on what I now know about Jeffree Star, I doubt I’ll be buying his makeup in the future.

As an unbiased consumer and beauty junkie, I did like this concealer. It’s very creamy, hydrating, blendable, and forgiving. The coverage was better than most but while keeping things natural-looking. While I didn’t find it superior, I did think it was on par with some of my favorite liquid concealers, the Nars Creamy Concealer and Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion Concealer, while at a slightly lower price point.

Why wouldn’t I repurchase this? Well, on a superficial level, I really didn’t like the packaging. I keep my concealers in a large jar along with other makeup products and this concealer stabbed me on the regular while fishing around for other items. Next, and this isn’t the brand’s fault necessarily, but I found it very difficult to get a color match. I’ve mentioned before that, with my half-Asian complexion, it can be tricky to find the right medium tone that has the right warm/yellow undertones. Despite trying out many testers (pre-pandemic) at a Morphe store and ultimately going with what I thought to be the best color, it turned out to be too dark when I incorporated it into my makeup routine at home. By now, I am typically very good at spotting and choosing concealer colors for myself, so this was an anomaly. I partly blame myself for this, partly blame Morphe’s lighting, and partly blame the brand. At any rate, I have a better match in other concealers and wouldn’t risk making this mistake again. However, if you’ve got a perfect color match, this stuff is good.

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Jeffree Star Magic Star Setting Powder ($22): This is product #2 from my Jeffree Star test run. Now, I’ll get this out of the way: I am picky and unloyal when it comes to powders. My baseline is KVD’s Lock-It Setting Powder, though I tend to have 3-4 powders in rotation at any given time.

I didn’t love this powder. I found it a bit too “present”—not sure how else to put it. When I put on powder, I want to feel it disappear soon after, feel more or less like my own skin, yet keep excessive shine at bay. (Is that asking too much??) I basically want my powder to set and only set my face—I don’t want added color or coverage. This didn’t really work like that for me, especially given there is legitimate pigment to this powder. (I’m usually drawn to more translucent, “universal” powders.) My color match was good with this, but I just wasn’t sold on the results; if I was having a dry or flaky day (thanks, tretinoin), this powder exaggerated those. Most powders do do that, so I’m not docking it tremendously for that, but it’s worth mentioning. Overall, with this powder, it felt like I was putting more makeup on my face, rather than bookending and setting the makeup I had already put on my face. (Er, does that make sense?)

But the reason this powder drops from 2 Pandas to 1 Panda is the scent. As I said above, I don’t mind fragrance. I really don’t! A product being scented or unscented plays no factor in whether or not I choose to purchase it. However, the intense cotton candy scent of this powder was too much for me. I know it’s meant to be fun and the first time I used it, I was certainly amused by it. Also, it doesn’t linger for too long afterwards. However, over time, the novelty wore off and I came to dread the sickeningly sweet scent. As weird as this may sound, applying something to my face that smells like cotton candy didn’t leave me feeling (for a lack of a better word) clean. Over time, I found myself reaching for this less and less, and I finally had to force myself to finish it so I didn’t waste it.

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Maybelline Master Chrome Metallic Highlighter ($10): I decided to give this highlighter a whirl when I saw Youtuber Tati recommend it on the regular in her drugstore picks. Even though this highlighter comes in a few shades, I decided to go with her exact shade, the Molton Rose Gold.

So, WOW. She did not lead me astray. While I in no way consider myself a highlighter expert, I’ve used my share of them, from oils to powders to creams. Truthfully, I’m pretty basic in my highlighter needs: I just want something that adds dimension and “oomph” to my face, but while looking NATURAL. I hate overly shimmery, bordering on glittery highlighters.

This stuff is legitimately fantastic. It’s buildable and can go from subtle to dramatic, it’s fine enough that it never looks glittery, and a little goes a long way. I liked it in the mirror but it was when I actually saw myself on video that I was converted; it looked more dewy and natural than I was expecting based on my reflection. I like it as much as (if not more than) other highlighters that are twice or three times the price. As of writing this blog post, I have already repurchased it.

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